I received the Klarus FH10 for the review from BangGood.com
Here’s the purchase link, and save 20% with the coupon: KLSPRO
The FH10 is a relatively compact 1x18650 light with an aspheric lens. The aspheric lens will concentrate the beam coming alternatively from the 3 different emitters in the FH10: a XP-L Hi cool white, a red CREE XP-E2 P4, a green Osram LT CP7P LED. The light comes with a Klarus 18650 2600mAh.
The FH10 comes in this box, with a see through part
The light comes apart, the head on one side, with the lens
And the body in the sheath, with the battery inside
o-rings, lanyards, manual.
Once you screw the head on the body, here’s how the FH10 looks like: rather linear body with a bigger head
The tailcap has 2 separate mechanical switches.
The threads at the tailcap are anodized (so physical lockout is possible), and greased. The ring for the cigar ring is not threated and just fits on the body, kept in place by the tailcap not in a firm way (it rattles up and down).
the threads at the head are squared cut and also anodized
the positive contact point is a golden spring, so flat top and button top cells will work.
The head with a crenelated profile and the big lens
As you may have noticed, on the head there’s this strange switch
This switch is a cylinder that travels from one end to the oher of the head, and it can be pushed from both sides. Its travel happens right under the cooling fins.
This switch allows the user to choose the emitter who will be powered.
Here is it on one side
Now I press it
here is in the recessed position, kind of like in the middle of the light
A part the cooling fins on the head, there’s some knurling on the body but the body is rather smooth.
Here’s the 3 colors.
- To turn the light on you need to press the central switch at the tailcap. The light will turn on at high mode, without memory.
- When the light is on, press the lateral switch at the tailcap, to cycle between the modes (high – medium – low, in loop).
- If you press the lateral switch at the tailcap when the light is off, strobe will be activated.
The UI is identical for all the 3 different emitters. To change the emitter who receives power, you need to operate the switch on the head. If you were into the low mode with the led emitter, if you change to another emitter, the same level will be conserved.
That switch works as a cylinder that goes from one side of the light to the other:
- When this switch is in the middle position, it is the XP-L Hi emitter who receives power,
- when it is on one side, it will be the red emitter;
- when it is on the other side, it will be the green emitter.
It is clearly explained by this Klarus GIF:
To move the cylinder switch you don’t need much pressure, and you got some millimeters of play for each of the 3 positions. On my sample, if the cylinder is pushed all the way on the “red side”, something probably doesn’t make contact and the LED doesn’t turn on.
Once you select your desired emitter, you need to orient the lens to focus the beam. The movement of the lens is obtained by rotating the bezel of the head.
Here is the lens in the further position
And in the closer position
Before the actual beamshots, I would like to spend some words about aspheric lens.
100 meters at the tree. I had to zoom with the camera because otherwise I wouldn’t be able to focus the images. To my eye I could see all the die details (wiring of the XP-L, XP-E2 and the Philips), but a 2 seconds
XP-L Hi, slightly lower oriented
Now, 100 meters is a distance that many lights can cover, however, the more spill the light has, the more light will be reflected at close to medium distances, causing the pupils to close and allowing less light to hit the eye. This cause the eye to be less able to receive the very small percentage of light who is coming back from the space enlightened by the spot. You can imagine how relevant this effect is when you are using a light in the fog or with high humidity. The less spill and the narrower spot a light has, will diminish the “blinding” effect, helping the eye to perceive the objects in the distance. Since the shots are zoomed in, they will not show some “slices” of spill that appears here and there in the field. They are not bright or disturbing.
A couple of things:
Here’s the result of the 2A discharge of the Klarus 18650 2600mAh battery that comes with the light.
Output and runtime
Note that normally I don’t measure the colored outputs, because a) usually they are rather low, b) the wavelength of that color doesn’t end up in the calibration interval of my luxmeter. I did test the output on all levels and colors of the FH10. The measurement of the green output led to incredibly long and wrong values, probably due to the luxmeter calibration curve. What I can say is that to the eye the green is much more brighter than the red output (just look the beamshot), and the specs about the green output (160, 65 and 5 lumens) are probably right.
Thanks to: AntoLed for the camera advices and the luxmeter.
In case you are interested in getting the FH10, here’s the purchase link, and save 20% with the coupon: KLSPRO